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      笃笃笃，春天的“鲜气”全在这一锅腌笃鲜
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    <div class="article-entry" itemprop="articleBody">
      
        <figure><img src="https://pic2.zhimg.com/v2-119bb67e5648bb654957fd9807bf356c_b.jpg" alt=""></figure><figure><img src="https://pic2.zhimg.com/v2-885ae854e6de6885144d39ef9d5bcdbd_b.jpg" alt=""></figure>

<figure><img src="https://pic3.zhimg.com/v2-544717bda2cb56b2edd66196c1bc4bd2_b.jpg" alt=""></figure>

<p>腌笃鲜是自带音效的。“笃”在江南地方话里是“小火慢煮”的意思，舌尖抵住上牙齿，短而轻促的一声“笃”，耳边就好像能听到锅里咕嘟咕嘟冒开的气泡。</p>
<p>每一户上海人家都有独门的腌笃鲜秘方。有人用冬笋代替春笋解馋，有人用火腿充当咸肉，还有人要放几段莴笋方能将息……就连写文章里最会吃的汪曾祺先生都曾在《肉食者不鄙》里提到“腌笃鲜”：“上海菜。鲜肉和咸肉同炖，加扁尖笋。”这话放到现在，大概是要被上海网友笑话的，文学界美食KOL地位恐怕不保。毕竟，腌笃鲜的灵气就在那水当当的新鲜春笋呀。</p>
<p>腌笃鲜是道集大成的本帮菜。“腌”就是腌过的咸肉，“鲜”即是鲜肉和鲜笋，至于“笃”就是烹饪手法。光是一个名号，就叫人浮想联翩。如果不是一味时令的春笋，腌笃鲜几乎是没什么门槛的当家菜。</p>
<p>春笋在水里焯一下能去掉涩味，现在大多把根部切除扔掉。搁在以前，这也是当家主妇舍不得丢的，他们认为越老的部位，鲜味越足。如果你是淡口爱好者，腌笃鲜是不需要加盐的，几方冬天里腌的咸肉就能毫不费力地扑腾出满室咸香。原本制霸餐桌的猪腿肉到了这里，也不得不心甘情愿充当配角，谁叫这春天就是春笋的主场。</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic4.zhimg.com/v2-eee6e5be9fba21eeb646e9c366ae5073_b.jpg" alt=""></figure>

<p>不过腌笃鲜是食材的群戏，任何一样寻常食材和春笋在这一锅里“笃忒一歇”都会变得鲜活精彩。鲜肉的肌理吸饱了春笋的清甜，濯去油腻，像是脱下冬装，轻装上阵。倘若还嫌这一锅浓汤不够热闹，那就放一把百叶结下去。我今天要教大家做的腌笃鲜就用了自己做的百叶结。从市场买回百叶，卷成卷儿，再轻轻挽成8字结，讨巧可爱，关键是让这一群原本稍嫌寡淡的家伙有了更多空间吸收笃出来的鲜香。</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic1.zhimg.com/v2-a54969be3a27ce94225a8a956a4bf258_b.jpg" alt=""></figure>

<p>心急的人是吃不了腌笃鲜的。面对柔嫩的春笋，任是谁都不忍心催着它释放香气，所以尽可能耐着心用小火笃。切成滚刀块的春笋在愈见深厚的汤色里上下翻浮，每一次冒出头来都意味着清鲜又浓几分。不过，为了保持肉的嚼劲和笋的脆嫩，腌笃鲜最好不要笃超过一个半小时。</p>
<p>有笋有肉的腌笃鲜是不适合一人食的，全家聚在一起才别有滋味。小孩用筷子挑起笋尖，大人捞起肥瘦正好的鲜肉，老人则夹百叶结慢慢磨嚼。但所有人的开场一定是舀一碗汤，“鲜”把味蕾叫醒。下面就来教大家笃一锅春意盎然的腌笃鲜，留心不要鲜掉眉毛哦～</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic4.zhimg.com/v2-c4995bbc47c51f406f98c8ecbcc2c007_b.jpg" alt=""></figure>

<p>-</p>
<p>INGREDIENTS   |      腌笃鲜  </p>
<p>咸肉 100g 猪腿肉 100g</p>
<p>春笋 2根 百叶结10个</p>
<p>香葱2棵 黄酒1汤匙</p>
<p>老姜1小块（约10g）</p>
<ul>
<li><p>VIDEO -<br><a href="http://link.zhihu.com/?target=https%3A//www.zhihu.com/video/968115918634766336" target="_blank" rel="noopener">              <img src="https://pic2.zhimg.com/80/v2-5be7533f01bc42513e7a3be56bf8fd55_b.jpg" alt="">              <span class="content">                <span class="title"><span class="z-ico-extern-gray"></span><span class="z-ico-extern-blue"></span></span>                <span class="url"><span class="z-ico-video"></span><a href="https://www.zhihu.com/video/968115918634766336" target="_blank" rel="noopener">https://www.zhihu.com/video/968115918634766336</a></span>              </span>            </a>            </p>
<p>-</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>METHOD |    腌笃鲜</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic2.zhimg.com/v2-007c3c87596d186c1bf03ae96e7de015_b.jpg" alt=""></figure><figure><img src="https://pic3.zhimg.com/v2-b5e9b30a22a817dadb4dbccaab5f5ab6_b.jpg" alt=""></figure>

<p>1.  鲜肉和咸肉分别切大块。</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic1.zhimg.com/v2-fa4c9252c849a8ec485d6c0f1578185c_b.gif" alt=""></figure>

<p>2.  鲜肉块和咸肉块分别放入冷水锅中，中火煮小沸，去掉血沫。</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic4.zhimg.com/v2-458d2a322a84f8a3c2b7a7618b70f063_b.jpg" alt=""></figure>

<p>3.  竹笋沿长边切一刀，沿切面层层剥去外皮，切掉老根。</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic1.zhimg.com/v2-8c63c18bb7a15eb4c78fcae45ab67d50_b.gif" alt=""></figure>

<p>4.  整根春笋放入冷水煮锅中，中火煮开5分钟，捞出沥干，切成大的滚刀块。</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic2.zhimg.com/v2-b767946b888aece3eb6b0ee6dd389c29_b.gif" alt=""></figure>

<p>5.  砂锅中放入两种肉，加足量冷水（或高汤），大火煮开，撇去浮沫。</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic3.zhimg.com/v2-095d745e9e69e030c428d2429d8cb902_b.gif" alt=""></figure>

<p>6.  在锅里放葱结、姜块、黄酒。加锅盖，改小火焖煮1小时。放入汆好的春笋。继续焖煮15分钟。</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic2.zhimg.com/v2-35dbb6e089785a08001586841e158741_b.jpg" alt=""></figure><figure><img src="https://pic3.zhimg.com/v2-da4577ded386f76200227cda941e4e1e_b.jpg" alt=""></figure>

<p>7.  焖的时候我们来做百叶结。买来的整张百叶中间改刀切成2张，沿着长边卷成卷，拧一拧，卷成8字结。</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic3.zhimg.com/v2-418dd99c949da16310b514e35d50c2b2_b.gif" alt=""></figure>

<p>沿着长边卷成卷；</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic3.zhimg.com/v2-daf17845f83809d0b4d81ef0503f5ebe_b.gif" alt=""></figure>

<p>拧一拧，卷成8字结。</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic2.zhimg.com/v2-4f899951e4650d5e6397383f2fe07215_b.gif" alt=""></figure>

<p>8.  百叶结用开水焯一下，去除豆腥。然后放入砂锅中煮10分钟。注意百叶结不要煮太久，出锅前下就可以。</p>
<figure><img src="https://pic4.zhimg.com/v2-c49dd327bfabf5bb751e281d5108710f_b.gif" alt=""></figure>

<p>9. 盛出一碗，撒香葱粒，还可以根据口味放一点盐调味。</p>
<p><strong>～ 来互动呀</strong></p>
<p>嘿！说说家乡菜！</p>
<p>春天了吃什么解馋？</p>
<p>图文均原创 </p>
<p>转载请留言</p>
<p>来源：知乎 <a href="http://www.zhihu.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">www.zhihu.com</a></p>
<p>作者：<a href="http://www.zhihu.com/people/ren-yun-li-51?utm_campaign=rss&amp;utm_medium=rss&amp;utm_source=rss&amp;utm_content=author" target="_blank" rel="noopener">任芸丽</a></p>
<p>【知乎日报】千万用户的选择，做朋友圈里的新鲜事分享大牛。<br>        <a href="http://daily.zhihu.com?utm_source=rssyanwenzi&amp;utm_campaign=tuijian&amp;utm_medium=rssnormal" target="_blank" rel="noopener">点击下载</a></p>

      
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